Author Archives: GCSDev

Early Spring Gardener’s Calendar

* Plan your summer vegetable and herb garden. We offer a wide selection of seeds that include all of your favorite annuals, perennials, vegetables and other novelties as well as many hard-to-find selections. Inventory your pots and flats and discard unusable ones. Make a list of the supplies you will need. Have your garden soil tested for nutrient content. We offer a variety of do-it-yourself soil test kits.

* Prune woody plants while dormant, including fruit trees, summer- and fall-blooming shrubs and vines. Limit pruning of spring-blooming trees and shrubs to the removal of sucker growth and rubbing or broken branches. Spray trees and shrubs with year-round horticultural oil to reduce insect population.

* Sharpen, clean and oil tools and lawn mowers. Begin heavy annual pruning of shrub roses as new leaves appear.

* Plant pansies, English daisies and primrose as soon as the earth is workable. Plant strawberry plants. Sow cool-season vegetables and herbs in the garden.

* Start spring cleanup and begin major lawn work. Remove debris, dethatch your lawn or aerate compacted areas to improve water penetration.

* Spray needles and limbs of Arborvitae, Cryptomeria, false cypress, fir, hemlock, Juniper, pine, yew and spruce (except blue spruce) for spider mites with year-round horticultural oil.

*Apply crabgrass preventer with fertilizer to feed the lawn and control crabgrass. Do not use on newly seeded lawns.

* Continue spring cleanup. Cultivate to remove winter weeds and debris from the planting beds. Apply corn gluten or a pre-emergent herbicide with fertilizer specified for gardens and scratch it in to prevent future weeds. Do not use in gardens where you will be direct seeding.

* Reseed bare spots in established lawns. Keep the area moist until seedlings appear, then mow when the new grass is 3? high.

* Prune forsythia and other spring-flowering trees & shrubs after the flowers fall.

* Dig and divide crowded early spring bulbs after they finish blooming. Enrich the soil with bone meal.

* Plant and transplant trees and shrubs, including roses, ground covers, and perennials.

* Transplant cool-season seedlings into the garden. When the soil temperature reaches 60 degrees, sow warm-season vegetable and herb seeds.

* Place gro-thru sets over peonies, grasses or any other perennials in need of support.

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Early Spring Blooming Beauties

Subtle blooms in early spring sing the promise of winter’s end. These simple beauties are often overlooked, overpowered by the bold appearance of tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and more. This is unfortunate as these perennials have an unpretentious charm that complements early season bulbs and shrubs. Consider adding a selection of these delicate treasures to your landscape this year! Listed are a few of our favorites:

SUNNY LOCATION
Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus)
English Daisy (Bellis)
Mountain Pinks (Phlox subulata)
Rockcress (Aubrieta)
Candytuft (Iberis)
Wall Cress (Arabis)
Pig Squeak (Berginia)
Basket-of-Gold (Aurina)

FULL TO PART SHADE
Pasqueflower (Pulsatilla)
Bleeding Heart (Dicentra)
Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia)
Columbine (Aquilegia)
Dead Nettle (Lamium)
Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis)
Creeping Phlox (Phlox stolonifera)
Lungwort (Pulmonaria)
Bloodroot (Sanguinaria)
Primrose (Primula)
Sweet Violet (Viola odorata)

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Spring Lawn Renovation

Seeding:

If you are planning to seed a new lawn or overseed an existing lawn, it is best to seed as early as possible. It is important to get seed germinated and growing before trees begin to leaf out. This is especially true in shaded areas. Keep the area moist at all times until the roots become established, then you can gradually decrease the frequency of watering. The new grass can be mowed when it reaches a height of about three inches.

Rejuvenating a Weak Lawn:

Your lawn cannot live without air, water and nutrients. When a thick layer of thatch builds up, water and fertilizer may run off instead of penetrating the soil. Aerating and dethatching can help rejuvenate a lawn by restoring passageways to the soil. Late spring is an excellent time to dethatch cool-season grasses. Thatching rakes can be used.

Test your soil to determine the pH. We recommend a small handful of soil taken from a depth of 3 inches. At a pH of 6.8 to 7.0, nutrients are most readily available to turf grasses, and beneficial microorganisms are more active to decompose thatch.

Fertilize with Seed Starter Fertilizer and top dress with peat humus or cover with salt hay or Penn Mulch.

Crabgrass Control:

On established lawns that you are not overseeding, apply a fertilizer with crabgrass control in early to mid April. Straight Team products can be applied with separate fertilizers like Espoma Organic 18-8-6. Reapply Team in early to mid June for the second germination of crabgrass. Remember, crabgrass seeds start to germinate when the soil temperature reaches 50 to 58 degrees. Use corn gluten as an organic alternative for crab control on an established lawn.

On newly seeded lawns and those seeded in late fall or during the winter months, use a starter fertilizer with crabgrass control. You will need to reapply in four weeks because Tupersan is not as effective as Team. Apply a Team product in early to mid June.

Maintaining your lawn at a higher level, 4 inches, throughout the growing season will allow you to control crabgrass without the use of chemicals. Taller grass will shade out the crabgrass seed preventing it from germinating.

Insect Controls:

An early season application of Merit will provide effective white grub control for the growing season. This preventative method tends to give better results than applying insecticides when you notice damage as it then may be too late.

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