You’ve fertilized your lawn meticulously, but it is still weak and thin. What else do you need to do? Lime may be the answer.

Why Lime Works Better Than Fertilizer

How do soils become acidic? Over the years, calcium and magnesium, the alkaline components in the soil, become replaced by hydrogen and are lost in drainage water, either naturally or through excessive irrigation. Also, while nitrogen is essential for good growth of grass, heavy applications make the soil more acidic. Not only does lime correct the acidity of the soil by reducing the toxic amounts of aluminum, manganese and iron, but it also supplies calcium and magnesium, which are essential for plant growth. Other benefits of applying lime include less leaching of potassium, making phosphorus more available to growing plants and speeding the decomposition of organic matter in the soil for reuse by plants.

Fertilizers can’t do the whole job of keeping your lawn healthy and beautiful because they can’t raise the pH of acidic soil. Poor lawns, including thin or patchy growth, are often the result of acidic soil. Lime is an excellent, easy way to correct low soil pH.

Liming in Fall

Fall is the best time for liming your lawn because the soil expands and contracts as the temperature fluctuates during the winter months. This motion works the lime into the soil. Also, the increase of moisture during the fall and winter helps “percolate” the ground and coats the soil with lime particles, more evenly distributing the lime so all the soil is improved.

Lime comes in three forms: pulverized, which is a fast-acting powder recommended for the garden; granular, which is sugar-textured and dust-free; and pelletized, which is fast-acting and dust free. Granular and pelletized forms can be applied to the lawn with a drop or rotary spreader. Application rates for the different types of soil are listed right on the back of the product bag. Generally, fifty pounds of lime per thousand square feet will raise the pH ½ of a point.

How can you find out if your soil is too acidic? Bring in a soil sample, ½ cup taken from a depth of 6 inches, for a free pH test or, for a complete analysis of your soil, contact your county agent for a Soil Test Kit. When you better understand your soil’s pH and how lime can help, we’ll be happy to assist!

Fall is the best time of the year to overseed your existing lawn or establish a new lawn. If your lawn is a bit thin, has bare patches or needs good care, now is the time to take care of it so it can become thoroughly established before warm temperatures arrive in spring.

Overseeding A Weak Lawn

A weak lawn may have thin or scraggly patches, seem overrun with weeds or have bare patches that are difficult to keep green and lush. Overseeding can help eliminate these problem areas and create a more consistent, luxurious lawn.

 Spray broadleaf weeds with a selective herbicide and wait 2 weeks for the weeds to disappear. Several treatments may be necessary if the yard is thick with weeds.

1. Take a soil sample of your lawn to determine the pH. A garden extension service can help determine pH levels, or home test kits are available.
2. Mow shorter than normal and rake clean to remove unnecessary debris that may keep seeds from reaching the soil.
3. Core aerate if you have compacted soil or heavy thatch. Remove the cores and dispose of them properly to keep the soil light and airy for seeding.
4. Apply starter fertilizer and lime if determined to be needed by the pH test, or choose a grass type that will thrive in your soil’s conditions.
5. Dethatch your lawn if thatch is thicker than ½ inch. This can be done with heavy raking or a special dethatching rake may be necessary in extreme cases.
6. Overseed with the proper seed. If core aerating, lightly topdress with topsoil or humus.
7. If needed, cover the freshly seeded area with netting or hay to discourage birds or other wildlife from consuming the seed before it grows.
8. Water daily until grass has germinated, then soak once a week to encourage deep root growth.
9. Fertilize in late fall with fall fertilizer.

Seeding A New Lawn

If you have no existing lawn or the entire ground is overrun with nothing but weeds, it may be best to start from scratch and create the lawn of your dreams.

1. Kill existing vegetation with nonselective herbicide. If you want to preserve nearby trees or shrubs, take steps to protect that vegetation from the treatment.
2. Take a soil sample of your lawn to determine the pH. A testing kit can provide a good pH estimate, or a gardening center or garden extension service can provide a more precise evaluation.
3. Prepare soil by breaking up the surface with a rake or spade using a crisscross pattern. All large lumps should be broken up, and any large rocks should be removed.
4. Broadcast starter fertilizer, lime and gypsum as determined by the pH test. This will provide a nutrition boost for fresh seeds.
5. Spread topsoil or humus to a ½ inch depth for appropriate planting.
6. Rototill to a depth of 4 inches and grade smooth. This will mix all the top layers together for uniform soil and nutrition, ensuring even turf growth.
7. Sow proper seed and mulch lightly with salt hay to control erosion and conserve moisture.
8. Water daily until grass has germinated, then soak once a week to encourage deeper root growth to resist droughts and repel weeds.
9. Fertilize in late fall with fall fertilizer to provide nutrition throughout the season.

 Which Seed?

 Not every lawn will thrive with the same type of grass seed. Allow our staff to help you select the seed that best suits your needs, soil type and planting conditions. Apply at the recommended rate and incorporate into the top ¼” of soil. Do not bury the seed or it may not germinate evenly.

No matter what the condition of your lawn, fall is the best time to take steps to help it rejuvenate so you have an amazing lawn to enjoy in spring.